When you’re composing a photograph, don’t be afraid to get close to what you’re shooting. Fill your frame with the subject by getting closer to it, not by zooming into it.
Moving closer will . . .
- capture details that would otherwise be too small to see.
- eliminate distractions
- create a more intimate photograph
- isolate your subject and accentuate the message, mood or subject
- make a stronger photograph and a stronger connection with your audience.
Why shouldn’t you just zoom in?
Zooming doesn’t have the same effect as moving closer. Zooming may degrade your image quality. Also, you have more control of your composition if you can move your body, not just your zoom.
What if you can’t move any closer?
Then absolutely, pull out that zoom lens! It’s better to zoom in than to have a subject you need to search the photo to see.





Good suggestion. I use my zoom all the time – never really thought about the quality of the photo being better if I move in. Time to check out your entire website. Thanks for the help.
Yes, one way that zooming in will degrade your image is by increasing the graininess in the photo. If you want the sharpest image possible, then you should move closer instead of using that zoom. Let me know how that works out for you.
Thanks for checking out the rest of my website!
Valerie
These are some great tidbits on turning a good picture into a great picture! Next time I go to the beach (perhaps on vaction to Key West) I will look, not only, at the “big picture”, but also the small one! How can I be sure to capture a clear image on a point and shoot?
Hi nicki bs,
Thanks! I’m so glad you’re finding these tips helpful.
How can you capture a clear image with a point and shoot?
- Use a tripod. There’s quite of selection available of small lightweight (and inexpensive) tripods for Point and Shoots. Just make sure you choose one that will support your camera’s weight. Bring your camera to the store when you shop so that you can try it out. Look for a tripod with three legs that move independently of each other. That feature will come in handy when you’re putting your camera on an uneven surface.
- Support the camera. It’s not always practical to use a tripod. When you’re hand holding your camera:
—–Use two hands.
—–Hold the right side of the camera with your right hand. Support the weight of the camera with your left hand.
—–Keep the camera close to your body. Tuck your elbows. Don’t shoot with your arms fully extended.
—–Support yourself by leaning against a palm tree or dock (any stable surface).
- Avoid using Digital Zoom. It will degrade your images. A Digital Zoom interpolates the image (basically, enlarges a portion). Whereas an Optical Zoom will use your camera’s lenses to magnify your subject. Some cameras have both digital and optical zooms. In these cases, the optical zoom will work to a point, and then the camera may automatically switch to digital. You might be able to set your camera to alert you before it switches from optical to digital. If you can, I recommend setting that alert.
- Get closer. At the risk of sounding redundant . . . get closer! Zooming in makes the camera more sensitive to movement. Any little bit of camera shake will be magnified along with your image, causing blurry pictures.
- Shoot at Maximum Resolution. Buy extra memory cards and shoot at the largest file size. Memory cards are cheap, flying back to Key West is not. So, set your camera to take the best image possible, even if it means changing out your memory cards more frequently.
- Clean the lens. This might sound obvious and silly, but it’s often forgotten and very effective. A smudge on the lens will cause soft images and halos.
- Research. Since you know you’re going to Key West, do some research on the internet to view photos taken there. See what you like, which photos are the strongest, and ask yourself what it is about those images that makes them great. Is it the angle, the lighting, the composition, etc? Then, while you’re there, you can recall that information and build on it. (Oh, and have fun!)
Hope this helps!
Valerie
I really like that last picture of the fish. I’m interested how did you get such dramatic shadow around it?
Hi John,
Thanks! To get the black background around the Damselfish, I used a single strobe at 1/4 power and positioned the strobe directly over the lens, pointed to the Damsel.
It’s not a lighting arrangement that you’d want to use on a person, but it worked well on this fish!
The 1/4 power gave me just enough light to capture some neat detail on the fish face, but not too much light that it blew out the nose (meaning, I don’t have any bright whites with no detail). Aiming it directly at the fish, and directly in front of the lens, prevented any of the strobe light from hitting the coral head that was behind the fish. If no light hits an object, then the object will not show on film. It’s like it doesn’t exist.
I used the same set up to photograph this seahorse.
http://www.valeriehayken.com/lined-seahorse-2.html
Great question! Lighting control is an extremely important part of photography. I’ll be sure to devote a few posts on that subject in the future.
In the meantime, let me know if you have any questions!
Valerie