Exposure Bracketing

A photographer will bracket exposures to ensure getting the best exposure. To bracket exposures, determine your best exposure and take that photograph. Then, take two more photos – one slightly underexposed and one slightly overexposed. By taking three slightly different exposures, the likelihood of getting the perfect exposure is increased.

Bracket as much or as little as needed. You can bracket in 1/3 stops if you know that you’re close to the right exposure and are trying to tweak it slightly. If you’re dealing with a contrasty scene then you may want to make more dramatic exposure changes – in 1/2 stops or full stops.

Exposure Bracket in a Tricky Lighting Situation

Exposure Bracketing is especially helpful in tricky lighting situations. In this example, the sky is about 1 and 1/2 stops brighter than the mountains. With tricky lighting, it’s often more helpful to bracket in 1/2 or full stops. Below, is an example of 1/3 bracketing. Click the image to see how I bracketed 1 full stop underexposure and 1 full stop overexposure.

Click for additional exposures

Highlights: Look at the differences in the sky from the underexposed photograph to the overexposed photograph. The underexposed photo captured more detail in the clouds, where the clouds are blown out in the overexposed shot.

Shadows: Look at the darkest part of the photo – the valley in the middle, under the hanging gardens. It’s too dark in the underexposed picture, but the overexposure captured additional detail in the shadow areas.

In the example above, I bracketed my exposure by changing the shutter speed.

Auto Exposure Bracketing – AEB

Many dSLR’s (and some advance point and shoots) have a setting called Auto Exposure Bracketing (AEB) that will do all the work for you. When using AEB, the camera takes each of the different exposures in quick succession, or even with a single click of the shutter button. The specifics vary between camera models, so read your manual to learn about Auto Exposure Bracketing on your camera. Here’s a quick overview of some common features:

1. Continuous Shooting – using AEB in burst / continuous shooting mode will take all exposures in quick succession when you hold the shutter button down once
2. Shutter Priority – Using AEB in shutter priority mode changes your f-stop between exposures.
3. Aperture Priority – Using AEB in aperture priority mode changes your shutter speed between exposures.
4. Stop difference – Many camera’s allow you to set how many stops difference you want between each photo.
5. Number of photos – Some camera’s take up 7 different exposures.

Choosing the Right Lens to Photograph Horseshoe Bend

Shot with a 4 x 5 Wista VZ Field Camera and 75mm Rodenstock Lens.

To capture all of Horseshoe Bend, you need a wide angle lens. If shooting digital, or 35mm, then use at least a 21 mm lens. The photograph of Horseshoe Bend above was taken with a large format camera (the negative is 4″ x 5″) and 75 mm lens, which is roughly equivalent to a 20 mm lens on a 35 mm or full frame digital camera. On my next shooting trip here, I’ll be using a 60 mm lens on a Toyo 4 x 5 Field Camera and a 15mm on a full frame dSLR (5D Mark II). In other words, I’d like to photograph Horseshoe Bend with an even wider lens.

For a frame of reference, these were taken with a 28 mm lens on a 35mm film camera.

Where'd the river go?

Shot vertically, I got the river but lost the surroundings.

As you can see, the 28 mm lens isn’t wide enough to capture all of Horseshoe Bend.

Filters: A split / graduated neutral density filter and polarizer may come in handy.

Composition Tips for Photographing Horseshoe Bend

Try to get at least a little sky in the picture. If there are neat cloud formations, or it’s sunset, then get even more sky in the composition. The wider your lens, the more sky you can capture. The sky will give your photograph a lot more depth.

Try to get some foreground. Again, it adds depth; it adds texture; it adds context; it adds perspective.

Research before you shoot. Look at as many Horseshoe Bend photos as you can and note which images you like best and why. Then, ask yourself how you can take those images one step further with composition, lens choice, exposure, lighting etc.

Choosing the Best Time of Day to Photograph Horseshoe Bend

Standing at the overlook, looking to the river and across the canyon, you’ll be facing west. The sun will be behind you in the morning and in front of you in the afternoon.

Just before Dawn: The whole scene is painted in gorgeous sweet light at dawn. Great time to shoot.

Shortly after Sunrise: The top 1/3 of the photo (some rocks and all sky) will be in sun, with the bottom 2/3 in shade. If the sky is cloudless, then the top will be pretty bright (maybe about 2 stops brighter), with a harsh shadow cutting across the photo.

Late Morning: On a clear day, the south cliffs are in shadow by late morning. If it’s overcast, then you may still be able to get some detail in your shadows.

Mid Day through Afternoon: Can be very contrasty – unless it’s overcast. If it’s overcast or stormy, then the lighting and sky might be really cool at mid day.

Late Afternoon – Sunset: This is a great time to shoot here, although it’s not without it’s challenges. The position of the sun may cause lens flare, the rock formation will be back lit (or, perhaps rim lit depending on the time of year). The colors will be great, though! Bracket your shots. Also, if it’s cloudy, then it’ll be less contrasty, a more dynamic sky and perhaps easier to photograph.

After Dark: Star Trails! Good place for night photography.

Caution: There are no railings at the rim of Horseshoe Bend! A word of caution: There are no railings at the rim of Horseshoe Bend. Nothing but air between you and a 1,000 foot drop (about 305 meters). Be very careful. It’s a disorienting view even for those of us not bothered by heights. The park service actually recommends laying down if you want to look over the rim. Parents and pet owners, be vigilant. Use your camera strap and keep all your gear secure. I had to get pretty close to the edge to compose the photo that I wanted. Don’t leave your comfort zone and don’t do anything careless. Finally, bring water and sun protection. The hike is 1.5 miles with no shade. Wear shoes; the sand can get very hot and sandals won’t protect your feet.

There are a number of these devices available by different manufacturers. Prices range from under $100 to over $1,000. Let’s look at the different features.

Important Features of Digital Camera Back Up Storage Devices

Battery Powered – If you’re away from a power supply, you’ll love having this feature! Equally important is that it works without a computer – saving you from lugging a laptop around. Also, Battery Life – Check the battery life before you purchase. Make sure your battery will last through backing up the entire memory card.

Space – Choose a device that has enough storage to last your entire trip – taking into consideration that you’ll fill each of your memory cards up more than one time.

Speed – My device is a tad on the slow side. I try to plan on backing up my cards while I’m doing something else, so that I’m not stuck twiddling my thumbs. If time is a concern for you, or if you’re using high capacity memory cards, take device speed into consideration.

Incremental Backup – This feature prevents you from downloading duplicate images. You can back up your card throughout the day, even if it isn’t full, and the device won’t copy the files that are already on it. This feature will save you some time when you download and organize the images on your computer.

Compatible with your memory card type – These devices are often billed as card readers, with with built in memory card slots. There are so many different types and sizes of memory cards that it’s important to make sure the model you’re interested in can read the same cards as your camera.

Ease of Use – Luckily, my device came with a small instruction manual that I carried around with it until I got the hang of it.

Price – If you’re on a tight budget, you can still get a reliable card reader. It just might not have all the bells and whistles of the more expensive products. Naturally, everything on this list affects the price.

Screen size – Screen sizes tend to vary from about 2.5″ to 4″. If you’re interested in a color screen or preview ability, then you may appreciate a larger screen, too.

Preview ability or Back up Verification – The less expensive models don’t usually have this option. My camera’s LCD is actually larger than my storage device’s, so I’d prefer to preview on my camera. The nice thing about having preview ability, though, is it’s a great way to verify that your images have backed up safely.

Color Screen – Colors LCD’s usually push the price of these back up devices to at least $300.

Dry Mounting

Dry Mounting is a permanent process that uses heat and glue to attach a photograph to a mounting board, foam core or museum board. It’s a good choice when you need your print to lay flat (no waves). However, it is permanent and devalues the work. If you’re collecting the photograph as a piece of art, then it may not be a good choice. If you’re more concerned with the aesthetic than the value, then go for it!

It’s also important to note that dry mounting is not archival and it may cause deterioration of the print sooner. Even when the materials are acid free, dry mounting is not museum quality. Museums do what’s called Conservation Mounting.

Conservation Mounting

Conservation mounting is reversible and causes no harm to the artwork. All materials must be archival and acid free. Museum boards are 100% cotton rag. Linen tape, used to hinge the art work to the museum board, can be removed with distilled water without damaging the art. If your art is not replaceable and must be preserved, then conservation mounting is the only option.

The downside to the Conservation method is that it does not prevent cockling. Cockling is when the paper gets wavy due to changes in humidity. It’s accepted in museums, but (in my experience) homeowners tend to dislike it. Large photographs are especially prone to cockling. The way to combat cockling is to offer more stability with a thicker rag board and frame. It may reduce the cockling, but it might not eliminate it entirely.

If you like the stability of dry mounting, but the look of conservation mounting, then combine the two methods. A dry mounted print can be matted and framed for a more finished look.

Box Framing

Box Framing is a modern method of displaying dry mounted prints. There’s no frame on this completed piece, in the traditional sense. Instead, there is a foam core frame glued on the back. It hangs on the wall from this frame, but the frame isn’t seen. The effect is a 3 dimensional image floating in front of the wall.

Since box mounted prints are not protected behind glass, consider having them finished with a laminate. Laminates can be glossy or a more subtle satin/matte. Either way, they enable you to wipe dust right off the hanging print.

When you look through your camera’s viewfinder, you’re seeing through the lens at the widest aperture opening. As we know from reading the exposure series, the aperture effects the depth of field (translation – what’s in focus and what’s blurry). So, you’re not actually seeing what the camera will capture on film / disk.

When composing a photograph, it’s important to know what elements are in focus and what aren’t. Focus can make or break a photo, no matter how great your subject, design elements, lighting, etc. That’s why many SLR’s have the Depth of Field Preview button. Press this button while looking through your viewfinder to see what your image will look like when shot with your current settings. If you don’t like your depth of field, then adjust your settings and preview your image, again, before taking the photograph.

5 Ways Depth of Field Preview Can Save Your Photograph

1. Ensure that everything you want in focus IS in focus.

2. See what your background will look like and have a chance to eliminate distractions before taking the photo.

3. Use as an aid to help you align a split neutral density filter correctly.

4. Reveal any lens flare that will show up on your final image.

5. Verify that elements you’re shooting through will disappear. Read more about how to shoot through a fence, such as in a zoo.

How to use DOF Preview In a Low Light Situation

If you’re using a small aperture, then depressing the DOF preview button will darken your viewfinder significantly. This prevents a lot of photographers from using DOF preview.

1. Close your eyes, count to 10, then open them. This is how I adapt my eyes to a darkroom.

2. Shield your eye and viewfinder from any side and back light that may be causing additional brightness or glare.

3. Pull a dark cloth over your head and the camera body, as though you were shooting with a view camera (Ansel Adams style). (Don’t block the lens!)

4. Shine a bright light on your subject while you’re previewing. Remove the light before taking the photograph.

5. Check your camera’s manual to see if DOF preview works with the LCD live preview, like on the Canon 5D Mark II.

Using the LCD Instead of DOF Preview

You will get the same result if you take the photo first and view it second, using your camera’s LCD screen. If you’re shooting in a low light situation, this might be a better option. Then, you can make your adjustments and retake the photo.

However, if you’re shooting any kind of moving subject, then while you’re taking a test photo and viewing your results, your subject may move causing you to lose the shot. Additionally, using DOF preview to take one picture instead of two will save you time in the editing stage, when you’re choosing your best shots.

Don’t be discouraged; there are a lot of reasons why you need to crop a photograph
- You couldn’t get close enough to your subject because there was a raging river.
- There are distracting elements in the photograph (dark shadows, bright highlights, red lawn mowers, etc)
- Someone photo bombed you!
- You were thinking outside the box and it just didn’t work.
- You want a panorama but you don’t have a panoramic camera.
- You broke up with your boyfriend but it’s a really cute picture of you!
- and on, and on, and on . . .

Luckily, there’s no shame in cropping a photograph!

How do you crop a photograph?
- traditional darkroom enlarger
- digital photo editing software
- kitchen sheers

The how is not as important as the why, but it does illustrate that you don’t need to be an Photoshop expert to crop a photograph.

Let’s look at some of my cropped photographs and the decision behind them.

Uncropped photograph

This is a photograph that I took in Yosemite. I love the texture on Liberty Cap, but the shadow in the foreground feels a little heavy to me. My eyes keep getting pulled down into the dark at the bottom of the photo.

Quick tip: When you’re looking at your photos, ask yourself where your eye is being drawn. If your eye isn’t drawn where you wanted, then your composition isn’t working the way you intended.

I like to do my cropping Adobe Photoshop Lightroom because it can be undone at any point. Click to enlarge the photograph to see the rule of thirds grid overlay. I used that grid as a guide to place the cool texture of Liberty Cap on a sweet spot in the image, while I crop out the heavy bottom.

Cropped Photograph.

In this example, I find the highlight on the bottom of the image to be a distraction.

Uncropped photo of Petroglyphs.

Crop overlay

Cropped Photograph

Cropping this photograph was definitely the right choice. The petroglyph is no longer fighting with the highlight at the bottom. Now, when I look at it, my eye goes to the petroglph. I can look at the photograph without feeling like the elements are vying for my attention.

Both of those examples were related to light and shadow. Let’s look at an example of just a plain old boring foreground.

Click the images to enlarge. It really does make a world of a difference. Eliminating that boring foreground made the photograph much more dynamic.

Questions to ask yourself when cropping a photograph:
- What distracting elements are taking attention away from the subject?
- Does the crop work with the subject matter? When I was a photo student, I cropped a photo of balloons. The effect was boxing in a light and airy subject. Needless to say, it was a bad decision . . . but a good learning experience.
- Does the crop place more emphasis on my subject?
- Does the shape of the crop work better with my subject, composition / framing, intended mood and output? For example, if I want to create a mood of power, does a vertical image work better than a horizontal? Do I need a square image to fit in a magazine layout?

In a perfect world, we all take perfect pictures. Yes, it is best nail your composition in camera. Until then, don’t be afraid to crop your photograph.

Get your camera gear ready the night before graduation.

1. Memory cards – have at least two formatted and empty. Verify that one is loaded into the camera.

2. Batteries – fully charged. Verify that batteries are loaded into the camera. Make sure you have back up batteries!

3. Flash – If you have an off camera flash, then make sure it also has fully charged batteries and back up batteries. If you haven’t used the flash in a while, remind yourself how to use it properly.

4. Tripod – If you plan on using the self timer so that you can get into the photo with your graduate, then bring a tripod!

5. Lenses – Make sure your lenses are clean. If you’re using an SLR, choose your lenses. I recommend a good portrait lens and a telephoto.

Before the Ceremony

This is your chance to get great cap and gown photos.

1. Let your grad know to plan time for some photos before the ceremony.

2. Scout for a good photo spot.
– Take advantage of natural light by shooting outdoors.
– Position the sun to the side to avoid silhouettes and squints.
– If the shadows are harsh, find shade under a tree to soften the light on everyone’s face.
– Use narrow depth of field to blur the background and eliminate distractions. Not sure how to use narrow depth of field? Read this post for more information.

3. If you have to shoot indoors with flash, check your exposure and white balance by previewing your photo. Black gowns may make your flash overcompensate on auto.

4. Make sure you get in some of the pictures, too! Use self-timer and a tripod or hand the camera off to someone else.

At the Ceremony, but before it’s started

1. Find out where your graduate is seated. Consider taking a photo of the row of graduates together. If possible, get your graduate to look at the camera for at least one shot. The eye contact will make a powerful image.

2. Most likely, your seat will be a terrible place for photographing. Find out if there’s a designated photo spot. If not, find out how close you can get to the action.
– This is especially important when the ceremony is indoors and you have to use flash and/or a high ISO (flash only reaches about 10-15 feet).
– Figure out what direction your graduate will be facing when accepting the diploma and be prepared to position yourself in that direction when the time comes. Try to photograph the face, not the back.

3. Test your lenses and decide which one gets you the best shot from where you’re shooting.

4. Check your exposure.

During the Ceremony

1. Enjoy the ceremony from your seat until it’s nearing the time for your graduate to get the diploma. Give yourself enough time to get to the best photo spot.

2. Take your photos and return to your seat so other’s can photograph their graduates.

After the Ceremony

1. This is a great time to shoot candids. There will be big smiles and celebrations so capture that excitement as it happens naturally. If people start posing for your candids, try using a longer lens and standing back.

2. Finish up your posed pictures after you get your candids.

Giclee prints use archival ink with exceptional color accuracy and 100 year life span in accelerated testing. The quality is comparable to traditional darkroom prints. The ink is usually pigment based, although there are some solvent based inks, as well. Giclee’s are typically created with at least 8 different inks and as many as 12. They can be printed on a variety of materials, including photographic paper and canvas.

They are a popular choice among artists, curators and publishers because they’re a relatively inexpensive way to produce high quality reproductions of art. Giclee’s have been on display at the finest galleries around the world and regularly sell for thousands of dollars at auction.

The term Giclee comes from the french word, gicleur – to spray.

Everything I’d read about the Virgin River Narrows warned that it’s a very strenuous hike. Don’t let that scare you! True, you can’t see your feet or where you’re stepping but if you have the proper equipment and tread at your own pace, then the hike can be tailored to your comfort level. Be aware, however, that there are certain uncontrollable elements. If there’s a strong current, for instance, it may be best to wait to hike another day.

It also helps to be a comfortable swimmer. There are areas of the river that you will need to swim across because they are too deep to walk. Expect to be in waist deep water through most of the hike.

Tips for Photographing the Virgin Narrows

- The canyon walls are incredibly high, meaning that most of the hike is in the shade. Shade generally makes for cold toned photos.
- Shade will also mean longer exposure times. Consider using a fast lens to compensate.
- Definitely use a tripod when your shutter speeds are slower than 1/15. Slow shutter speeds will soften the river water and capture great motion blur.
- Fall colors are amazing in the canyon.
- Plan on spending all day there.
- The best light will be from 11am to 2pm. Be inside the canyon long before then to scout your compositions.

---

From bug bites to falling rocks, no hike is without risks. Know the risks before the hike to manage them successfully. The 3 Main Risks to manage in a Narrows hike are: Flash Floods Hypothermia Broken Bones The 4th, unofficial risk to manage is: Keeping your camera dry

---

Equipment:

Hiking pole – Choose a wooden hiking pole that is about shoulder high. While you’re hiking, use the pole to feel the terrain in front of you. (Remember, you can’t see where you’re stepping.) Try to keep the pole two steps in front of you, when you can’t see, to feel for holes, large rocks, etc. There are several equipment rental places in Springdale, UT where you can get a good hiking pole.

Avoid using telescoping trekking poles. They will bend more easily than a wooden hiking pole. They don’t have the added advantage of height. Also, sand and water are likely to get inside the pole and could cause future problems. Most importantly, they are not long enough to test the river depth.





A couple of hikers floating down a particularly deep section of the Virgin River.



Quick Dry Clothes – The hike takes you in and out of the water throughout the canyon. When you’re out of the water, you’ll be a lot more comfortable if you’re in light weight, breathable, quick dry clothes.

Shoes – 5.10 Canyoneer Shoes. These are the the ugliest and most wonderful shoes ever! Buy your own or rent them in Springdale. These shoes will protect your feet and ankles from rocks and debris that you can’t see. They’re very supportive and have grippy outer soles that will make walking on rocks much easier.

Socks – Wear neoprene socks inside the rented shoes to prevent blisters. They will also help keep your feet warm. You can rent these, as well.



Dry Suit or Dry Pants – Wear a full dry suit from about Dec to March when the water temp may be as cold as 40 degrees. From Oct – Nov and April – May, the water is a little warmer and dry pants may be sufficient. (Rent-able)

Dry Bag for camera – There are a number of different manufacturer’s of SLR Dry Bags. Make sure that your camera is easily removable so that you’re not struggling every time you want to take a photo. Test the waterproofing before your trip. **Put a dry towel inside the empty dry bag, seal it and then submerge it in a bathtub. Dry the outside of the bag before you open it to remove the towel. If the towel’s wet, the bag is not waterproof.** Remember, that equipment can fail; consider putting your camera into a plastic bag, within the dry camera bag for your hike. I wear my SLR Dry Bag slung around my neck like I regulary wear my SLR camera for easy access. It’s also convenient to grab it and hold it over my head when the water gets deep. (Also rent-able. Be aware that rental gear gets abused and the outfitter will offer no guarantee.)

Dry Bag for other essentials – Usual accessories such as sunblock, sunglasses, hat, first aid kit, drinking water, lunch, etc can go into a separate dry bag that you won’t need to access as frequently as your camera bag. Also, I keep my spare memory cards and batteries in a plastic zip-lock bag, within my second dry bag. This way, if one bag fails, I won’t loose all of my work because half my CF cards are in another bag. Also, I’m constantly pulling my camera out of the dry bag and I don’t want to worry about loosing other items.

Backpack – You need to keep your hands free for the walking stick, your balance and photo ops. Bring a backpack that you can get wet and put your dry bag inside it. Or, get a dry bag that you can wear like a backpack.

---

Always check in at the Ranger’s Station before you start the Narrow’s Hike to check the: Weather Forecast The Flash Flood Potential Virgin River Stream Flow Rate

---

Trailhead – There are two ways to hike the Narrows.

If you enter from the south, you do not need a permit. This is a great place for anyone to start, especially if you’re with kids (4 feet tall and higher), have limited time or are unsure of your ability. You can turn around at any time. Once you get through the first quarter mile the number of hikers decreases dramatically. There will continue to be less people the further you go.

Mystery Falls To get to the trailhead, walk 1-mile down Riverside Walk from the Temple of Sinawava. It’s a paved sidewalk that meanders along the Virgin River, past hanging gardens and bold squirrels. (If you like photographing animals, spend some time with the squirrels. They love to pose.) The first big point of interest is Mystery Falls, about .5 mile upstream. It’s about another 1.5 mile upstream hike to Wall Street, which is where the narrowest section of the canyon starts. Around the bend from Wall Street. Just outside of Wall Street is a side canyon called Orderville Canyon. It’s well worth the detour if you have the time. Finally, 2 miles further is Big Springs, the furthest you are permitted to hike from this direction.



Virgin River

If you have more time, would like a leisurely hike or want to camp, consider getting a permit to enter from the north. This is a 16 mile one-way that starts at Chamberlain’s Ranch. You’re hiking down stream the entire time but you’ll be carrying extra gear for your overnight. Figure on two 8-hour hiking days.

]]> http://valeriehayken.com/photo-blog/archives/2689/feed 2 http://valeriehayken.com/photo-blog/archives/2692 http://valeriehayken.com/photo-blog/archives/2692#comments Wed, 23 Nov 2011 20:59:03 +0000 Valerie http://valeriehayken.com/photo-blog/?p=2692 There are less than 10 calendar’s left! Buy yours now! This 12 month calendar is filled with photographs from Nevada, Utah and California. They make great gifts!

---



Salton Sea, California



February 2012: Salton Sea, California



March 2012: Valley of Fire, Nevada



April 2012: Valley of Fire



May 2012: The Narrows, Utah



June 2012: The Narrows, Utah



July 2012: Wall Street, Utah



August 2012: Valley of Fire



September 2012: The Narrows, Utah



October 2012: Thor's Hammer



November 2012: Queen's Garden Trail



December 2012: Devil's Rock Garden

]]> http://valeriehayken.com/photo-blog/archives/2692/feed 0